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Well, apparently, it’ll upgrade the firmware with the web thing, if you use Chrome in Windows.

Apparently some people had luck opening new tabs to upgrade the older firmware.

And possibly with the one I wanted.

Well, if I knew I’d have to use Windows, not sure I would have bought any of them.

Had to use a VM, and forgot the Bluetooth on the PCIe card uses USB most likely for the Bluetooth part. Well, good thing that worked, cause the other one Windows won’t install the driver for automatically. What a shitty ass OS.

Guess I needed to read their entire issues on GitHub to find all the reasons not to buy it.

I’m updating using the RetroScaler firmware, not the official firmware. Cause apparently, people have issues with the official firmware on this clone crap.

Just waiting for it to finish now. 100%, but might take a while, or not finish at all.

Almost 3 AM. Good way to stay up early.

Might not bother doing anything else if this works. Doesn’t work, might just go to bed as well.

It just disconnects really quickly in Chrome in Linux, and Chromium. And Vivaldi doesn’t work at all, that was the Flatpak as well as the official Chrome. Too lazy to install crap I don’t want, some other way. Chromium might be anyways.

Maybe I should go pee, and just go to bed. Maybe it’ll be done when I wake up. Or not. No idea how long it’s been either.

Where are the BlueRetro things with USB? Cause this is a real pain in the ass. Oh yeah, might be on eBay. Well, should have bought that clearly. Then I wouldn’t need Windows.

Hmm, there’s one on eBay, I didn’t notice before. Says open box, the four port one, and has USB C. But who made it? If it’s homemade, then it can likely use official firmware without issues.

Oh China and open box.

I usually filter to US only. So no wonder I didn’t see it.

Well, might not be sold in the US, at least on eBay.

And I need to remember not to reset the damn thing, if so, I might be using a VM again. Also, if it resets itself, well I will be to.

Got the firmware updated sometime after I woke up. You may or may not need Windows.

But you do need a working firmware. The official firmware, the hw1 one works.

Might have worked when trying it again after waking up, from Linux, if I used that firmware. No idea how far it got until it disconnected. Was eating.

You can probably use Chrome or Edge in Windows.

But they should really say, you need Windows basically to update the firmware. All browser bluetooth shit in Linux might be experimental. And they might as well say you need Edge as well. When I tried with Edge, I didn’t even need to enable any experimental flags.

Don’t know if I can update the firmware from Linux or not. Or even if I needed to.

But I can change settings in Linux using Chrome.

Not sure it works good enough to update the firmware though.

The best one to get, is one with USB. Not sure any US seller has it though.

It’s a cheapo SATA SSD. From a brand, that a lot of people will say is “bad”.

Around 49 MB/s I think f3write said for the average, which may be wrong. Was shitting though, so didn’t see much before that.

And when I looked at GParted, copying from the microSD, to this SSD, it was almost 90 MB/s. Is that reading or both? Maybe both.

And in that case, that’s pretty good read speed for a shitty microSD card, and probably a better write speed then the Kingston SSD that was in the enclosure. Even 49 MB/s, might be faster then the Kingston, no idea.

But 49 MB/s for write speed on a microSD, might be harder to sustain on a microSD. But I don’t pay a ton of money on microSD cards, so I don’t know about the “better” ones. And maybe I should say a ton more as well.

They like dying in the Raspberry Pi. Even had a Samhung endurance card die. Not sure it was dead before taking it out of Pi though.

Either way, all microSD cards die eventually. And lots of them die faster in a Pi.

So going to use a USB SSD instead. I don’t think a Pi 4 or 4B, whatever it is, actually has PCIe that can be used for a SSD anyways. The shit I saw, said it would be USB. Therefore, I just got a drive, and used this enclosure.

Will it boot without changing anything though? Forgot about that before shutting it down and putting microSD in card reader. And too lazy to change DNS on anything, to look it up.

The downside of shutting down the Pi. Might be done though, should probably check it.

And then if it doesn’t boot, I’ll have to put the microSD card back in, and change something.

Funny, this SSD is slightly smaller then the microSD card. And you know why? Cause not all people that make SSDs are doing anything the exact same way. The flash chips though, might be similar to other brands. How many companies actually make the flash chips anyways?

But some of the cheapo brands on Amazon, are fake at least for microSD cards. Might as well test the SSD, wanted the write speed anyways. Not sure f3write is a great tool for the write speed though, but it looks like the drive is good. But did I even look at the output of f3read? Good question. Well, the average read speed I think was 400 MB/s or so.

Might need to disable, UAS though. Had to disable UAS on my Insignia dock on the Orange Pi 5, cause it crapped out while backing up. And it doesn’t appear to be the chipset that starts with a J either. But it’s plugged into a hub now, somebody said that fixed something like that for them.

So maybe I re enabled UAS, now I get to wait till next month, to see if it craps out again. Too lazy to run a manual backup.

Didn’t have to do shit, not even edit /etc/fstab. Guess GParted clones it. Good reason to copy it with GParted. Does dd do that too?

Well, if you restore a backup, to a new disk, and don’t change the UUID after making new partitions, you have to change the /etc/fstab. Maybe not if you do a dd backup. But instead, just backup the UUID, and use something else. Even if a DD backup can be made smaller, I’m too lazy to do it. Or look it up.

And the microSD in it, isn’t as shitty as some people would say the brand I thought was in it. It actually has a Samhung Endurance in it apparently. Thought it was a PNY though. And the USB PNY flash drive I have, is super slow. Possibly slower then some of their microSD cards. Well, don’t need to write anything new to it anyways. It’s good to go.

All I would need to do really is put a new ISO on it, and edit the grub file. Might last long enough, especially since it’s just sitting on the desk. Who knows when or if I’ll need it.

You can get a better flash drive or anything from PNY anyways, just spend more on a different one. How much more? Who knows. Might even be the same price. Depends on where you buy it. And if you want to buy it locally. So could be cheaper as well.

But nowadays, everything costs more.

The write speed according to dd, is around 80 MB/s. And the read speed according to hdparm is almost 200 MB/s.

Don’t know what the Pi 4 is capable of.

Also it’s plugged into a HDD dock’s USB 3 port as well.

So might just be faster on my desktop for that reason, if it is.

The USB regular drives might be faster over the network when writing. Don’t know about dd though. Don’t care that much anyways.

It depends on the command that I used as well. Or the arguments.

It’s using uas, and I think I read, if it’s slow, you might need to disable UAS for it.

Slightly slower now. For the write speed. Slower read speed too.

So probably not uas. But might be the port on dock.

And I’d need to buy a USB hub to fix that. But what version is the USB on the Pi 4 anyways? Cause the port is 3.0 on the dock. Looks like 3.0.

But need to change the dd command slightly. Might as well run on laptop while it’s rebooting, both ways too.

835 MB/s. On internal drive, the same way as I ran on Pi. Well, not running it the other way on internal drive. See what the external drive says. Will likely be too high, to bother running it both ways.

And it’s apparently slower. Are these arguments for a regular hard drive? Maybe so.

The AI says to use oflag=direct for the SSD, and said oflag=dsync for disk.

And only reason I look at that, is it’s at the top of the damn search results. Seems like a “smart” AI. And yes, it should show ssd and hdd commands together. If you search for “disk”.

And now on Pi, it’s 101 MB/s for the write speed.

Still not as good as my desktop most likely. But might be just good enough for me, to not bother testing it directly plugged into Pi.

Also, oflag=direct says around the same speed on my laptop’s external SSD. Which is under 40 MB/s.

Not sure I care enough to lookup the SSD in USB enclosures for the Pi 4 either.

I kind of doubt this SSD on laptop is this slow, unless I plugged it in wrong. Oh yeah, I unplugged it a while ago on accident. Hmm, but I think the entire thing came out. Not the C cable. But who knows, my memory sucks nowadays.

Just copy from the network to it, if it’s under 80 MB/s or so, say 50 or less, then it’s probably plugged in wrong. Nice adapter.

Looks faster, so dd command doesn’t like this drive.

And if you run it without direct, it’s 2 GB/s, which isn’t right. Need to clear the cache most likely.

Don’t think this drive is capable of 2 GB/s. And not using the direct even after clearing the cache, doesn’t change it.

Just change it to 10G.

If you put usb in front of ssd in search, you get yet a different command.

Also, 10G gets around 30 MB/s as well. Without any flags.

The read speed is around 40 MB/s with hdparm.

But with KDE, it said what I get over the network from the drive on Pi. But then, if the drive is too slow in KDE, it says it’s done before it’s done. Not sure though that’s the case.

Still odd, hdparm says the read speed is only 40 MB/s. Cause I never noticed any damn issues. And I might @ 40 MB/s.

Same speed plugging cable in other way. Well, don’t ask me then. I could check some commands, but even so, makes no damn sense. Read speed might be slightly more.

Should make sure the cable is plugged in right though. Or it might have issues. Might just need to undo what I did.

Plugged it back in the other way, and copying a bigger file from Pi, and fine so far. Looks like dd is just slower for some reason.

Looks like the file is there to me, it’s got a preview, and opened it, and fast forwarded. No issues. Good enough for me.

And dd might not be the more realistic benchmark anyways. Might be info from the “smart” AI itself as well. Then why say use dd?

Well, too lazy to use anything else, unless I have kDisk installed on my laptop. But I’d need a terminal thing on Pi.

Set kDisk to 4 GB. Now to get off my ass, and eat some pretzels. And get more water. And then go to bed soon.

Well, the Flatpak version is slow.

Testing the Debian one now. Maybe Debian has some odd issue, after the upgrade.

And bypassing the filesystem, might be an issue. If the SSD has fast and slow flash. And no idea, it’s a Crucial made to be USB SSD. And it’s also, faster most likely, if I plug it in by C, but then I lose a USB4 port on the dock. But it should be faster then under 40 MB/s write anyways.

If kDisk is using dd, it’s kind of pointless.

Hmm fio deletes data? Probably it’s own data.

And how do you write to a drive, without writing to it? Or they don’t want the delete part?

Wow, this AI sure is smart. I didn’t write KDE Dolphin is slower, the opposite.

All the results aren’t right either. Now to type it with slower instead, since apparently, it’s opposite day.

Nope, it doesn’t know what “faster” means.

Typed it all differently, and still nothing I want. That’s enough searching for now. The internet just keeps getting more stupid.

Sigal already exists. Just password protect the domain or subdomain or folder. Upload it to your hosting.

Shared hosting is cheaper anyways.

I resized the images to 1024×768. A little under 5 MB the entire folder is. Just the JPGs with original size are over 100 MB.

Looks like I have plenty of space on my hosting. I can always rm -fr the static folder, and then remake it with just one gallery anyways.

The problem would be sharing the original files. But if somebody just wants one or two or so of the bigger resolution files, they’ll probably ask.

But most people are looking on their phone.

I forgot to send those photos as well. And sending the original photos is a pain with email. And don’t want to upload them to Gmail anyways.

Don’t want to use my better email to email somebody with Gmail either. Hmm, probably don’t really need that email address.

As I’m planning on getting nothing from the government by the end of the year anyways. What will I need email for?

This browser or app may not be secure. Learn more
Try using a different browser. If you’re already using a supported browser, you can try again to sign in.

Nice security “Google”, who doesn’t do “evil”.

I think they say Tor Browser is the most secure. I should see if that blocks me too.

Can still oddly check it on my phone though, using an email app, not made by them.

Well, might not have internet soon, cause I’m not paying Comcast with a different card. Nor am I making a new PayPal account. All the other bills, will be cancelled too, if that happens. I assume, the bills will cancel themselves as well.

Might have been because I updated Debian on laptop, and it wasn’t syncing the time. I assume it was before though. Or not, surprised it worked at all then.

Also rebooted the router after updating it.

It’s going to be nice if all the time servers go offline.

Good thing time wasn’t invented. It sure is reliable, and seems like an intelligent design.

Well this Kaico HDMI Adapter for the Nintendo 64 works. But no idea what I bought, or anything. It matches the photos on Amazon, but not on their site. Can only find any adapter on their site on the product manual page.

Didn’t try scanning the QRcode on the box for that manual, I threw it away anyways.

Got rid of the bad looking edges I saw on the TV when they tested it for me at the Pawn Shop on their TV. No idea if my TV had that when plugged directly into it.

But on Amazon, it says it outputs to 1080p. I didn’t read under the 1080p on the box. But that’s what the image says for that part of the box.

Well, it only does 720p. So wtf did I get?

Well, I also forgot, Amazon sends shit not sealed as well. The person that posted a photo of a completely different one, that matches the Kaico website.

So maybe they got the right one, and it was defective or incompatible with their TV. No idea what I got though. Looks like some of their other adapters though.

Also, why only 720p? The switch just changes the aspect ratio.

Well, it looks good enough for me anyways. But if it’s a knockoff, I should send it back. Cause I don’t like liars. Which is Amazon.

Also, Kaico seems to be the seller of it as well, it’s on the store they link to on their site. Yet, I can’t find what I bought on their site.

Search says showing five results, but where? I can’t see no results.

Good news, probably not a knockoff.

See here. Looks same as the one I got from Amazon.

Found it on a search engine, cause their site is broken apparently.

I guess there is no manual for it though.

Almost bed time, I wasted a lot of time, doing I don’t even know what. Also, my two nuts in a sack, need some sleeping.

Decided to look at the manual today for the receiver. Cause makes no sense, to have those inputs, and be required to use the same kind of cable for the output. As the receiver does 4k.

Well, you have to plug the HDMI to TV, in a different port. If you want to use ARC as well, you’ll be using two HDMI ports on the TV.

Going to try it soon though. That’s just what the manual says. And if it has to be in a 4k HDMI port, then I basically need a converter of some kind.

Too many opinions, that I want to see what it looks like before I buy it. And then I’ll just buy what I want and think will be good enough for me. All those people with opinions, aren’t going to be looking at my TV after all. Some say you need to mod the original Nintendo 64 to get the best or acceptable image on modern TVs. Hmm, well, if that’s the case, I need a CRT or a old projector. Also, that’s their opinion. Some say S-VIDEO is better. But for everybody? Probably not. Some are using a cheapo cable with HDMI, and somebody says they researched, and therefore didn’t try anything cheap. Might do something funky. But does it affect all TVs? Do all people care? The person even that posted about the cheapo thing that works fine for them in response to the researcher, said it’s good enough for them. And they bought it, tried it, and guess what? It’s good enough for them.

So if you just want to spend a ton of money, then go ahead.

Also, I think I can change the “passthrough” device to a non 4k port. Meaning, I may have to buy nothing. Got to see what it looks like first. And if what I buy sucks, depending on how much it is, well, I’ll just live with it. Cause if I decide to spend $80 or so, and it doesn’t do much, I’ll either send it back, or keep it. Doesn’t mean I’ll buy anything else either, especially not anything that costs more.

Well, I guess that’s what the passthrough setting is for.

Looks like the passthrough setting doesn’t do anything. Good luck getting video from a Nintendo 64 with this receiver on the TV.

Instead, I just plugged it into the TV, cause I noticed it has the right inputs, and got a video.

Not if you are trying to access an old iPod.

Try with openSUSE Tumbleweed. Good luck, if it’s formatted with hfsplus. That Wiki is useless as well. Cause it seemed to suggest, you need to recompile the kernel without EFI boot partition enabled.

Nope, Linux removed hfsplus support.

Well, Debian is using older kernel, and it’s copying the music now.

Might have some or all of music, but too lazy to check. So I’ll just copy it all again.

He wants to replace the battery and screen. And maybe the drive. You can get a adapter to use a mSATA drive. Might want to replace the firmware as well, cause apparently at some point, if I upgrade Debian, we may not be able to access the drive without formatting it.

Won’t sound good? Well, then you might as well be an audiophile, and waste all your money.

Just like with TVs, doesn’t look good? Keep on upgrading the DRM, until you can’t use it with something, or you know watch something you want to watch.

This might take a while as well, guess I’ll hook Nintendo 64 up. Assuming the receiver has the right inputs, he said it does, he was with me when I bought it. So it probably does, I just forgot, cause I didn’t think I’d need it. The Xbox Series S is gone, a direct trade, at the pawn shop, and got one game.

I could have got $300 for the Xbox possibly, if I sold it to somebody myself. But too lazy to ship it, and not meeting some stranger off the internet either. And not asking somebody else to do it either. Don’t care about the money anyways. They had something I wanted, and even got a six month warranty. Good enough for me.

Got more crap to get rid of as well. But the other stuff I didn’t bring in, cause somebody I know might want some or all of it. But the Xbox Series S? No disc drive. If something happens to internet, good luck getting anything else to play on it.

Also, I don’t need it, was just sitting there, unused, for a long ass time. Basically almost brand new. And the other crap I traded them as well with it.

Also, the people at the pawn shop are nice. So I’ll likely go there again. Got a receiver I like and speakers, then traded an Xbox, for something I want, and who knows what else I’ll want or have to get rid of. Got one game as well. But not really needed, he did test it.

Need an upscaler possibly though. And may have bought something that’s better then one game anyways. Too bad you might have to import that if buying it new though. But who cares, used is good enough. Don’t care if it’s the same price as new overseas either. Pretty damn close to where they are shipping from. Good luck finding any online store, that ships it that close as well.

Amazon? Don’t like Amazon. And they do have something that might be a clone. But it’s probably junk.

Need to find the best budget upscaler for Nintendo 64, and that can be used with other systems.

There’s a clone upscaler, but not sure it’s worth buying or not. Sounds like the original is better, and not bidding on eBay to get one, how much will the final bid be? Too lazy. Cause somebody is willing to pay more then me anyways.

A new one might be cheap, if you don’t live in the US. Also, that wasn’t in dollars either.

Supposedly you can get a new regular OSSC or whatever on Amazon for $180. But is that even worth it? Also, need to look at that, to see if it has the right inputs.

The mClassic might be junk. And you can’t just plug a Nintendo 64 into it.

And I had an upscaler thing, a crappy thing. Do I still have it? And can it be set to 480p? Cause it could convert the 64 to HDMI, and use it with the mClassic. But only way to find out if the mClassic is good enough is to buy it. Not sure I want to convert the video to HDMI and buy that thing just to see. Now if I give somebody money, they buy it on Amazon, I might be able to return the mClassic. If it’s useless.

If I could find a nice little CRT TV, that would work too. Somebody mentioned some education projector, but you can’t buy it on eBay. It’s discontinued, and not on eBay.

Too lazy to keep looking at projectors, and don’t really want to replace bulbs. Do want to see what it looks like on a projector now though.

Mom has some little projector, need to see inputs on it. If it has any. Hmm, a cheap projector. But if it’s not bright and ultra short throw, it’s useless to me.

Then I can get a “dumb” TV as well. Goodbye Vizio junk. Walmart owns Vizio, and my mom’s TV froze the other day, buttons didn’t respond either.

How about a Japan made TV? Probably can’t buy one in the US though. Good batteries come from Japan. Crap comes from China.

Made in America? That’ll be like China if that happens now. The people will get paid as much as the people in China, or less.

Apple makes their crap in China for a reason. Except this iPod somehow still works.

And how long has Apple been making their crap in China? Probably before Tim Cook.

I do know, I wouldn’t want a robot doctor, unless maybe it was made in Japan. Might just blow itself up before it sees you. But also, might murder me when I get a prostate exam.

Sound no video with receiver, looks like on the back of receiver, says monitor in one spot where the yellow video plug is. Above that, says video and something else, probably output.

Well, too lazy to plug it directly into TV. No idea if it has the right inputs. 6 month warranty, and I saw them test it.

Looks like it doesn’t output the signal to HDMI, therefore, it has no upscaler. Well, I guess I need an upscaler then.

Recopying the music with Strawberry, cause I don’t like all the underscores in the filename. And too lazy to mass rename them as well, and it failed to copy at least one file.

Clementine, didn’t even show anything under Unknown either. Strawberry is a fork of Clementine I think, and for some reason does.

The OSSC not on eBay from a US seller, unless you want a broken one.

Also, need to check how much money I have as well.

Can Linux get the iPod model number? Maybe not, not from lsusb, doesn’t say the exact model number. Says it’s a video one though. And I know it’s 30 GB.

How many iPod Video 30GB models are there?

Can’t see if there’s an about on the iPod, cause it’s plugged in and copying files.

Don’t want to take case off yet, cause it’s a pain. Was a pain for somebody else, so probably more of a pain for me. I can’t even open grocery bags at the store always.

Searching eBay for “retro upscaler” and then I’ll search internet if I find something that looks interesting enough.

Well, eBay is broken, cause I might see a OSSC now, from the US.

Not the Pro one, no idea if it’s worth $160 or not. Cheaper then Amazon. But I’d want faster shipping, cause that shipping might be super slow. How much is that?

Might be better then that cheaper clone thing. But everything is an opinion, therefore, who knows, the cheap thing might be good enough.

Also, emulation is about accuracy, not just visual or input lag. If you use a software emulator, well, apparently it’s made for one game, then a bunch more games, but 7 years ago, no emulator developers cared much about making all games as accurate as possible. Except for Higan or whatever, and doesn’t do Nintendo 64. Also, I wonder what the system requirements are for it.

The hardware things are the best ones, either original, or the expensive ones. Oh yeah, I need to check their site.

Hmm in stock, and only $270. For the 64 one. But I like the original system anyways. And also, I’d need more money. Well, there’s plenty of crap in my apartment after all.

Just don’t take the cash myself. Give it to somebody, they buy it, keep it at their house as well. Might be moving soon anyways. Just look at what the US is doing. Might also be dead soon as well. Now that protesters are getting shot.

Need a controller adapter and/or wireless controller for it as well. The cord reaches, but still like wireless. Also, if it breaks, an adapter is nice.

Not a mid life crisis, based on shit happening in world, I may very well not live to be 40. So more like a near end of life crisis.

OSSC might be too expensive, you might need something else to connect Nintendo 64 to it. Saw something, but around $100 I think.

They have cheapo converts. Think I have something like that for Wii. But I want a better one, that I can also plug Wii into.

And anything else I get or want to plug into it. Rather buy one thing to do it all.

Hmm mini LCD, only $212 or so, and $11 shipping. Is that an old LCD? Cause, that might work too.

It’s used, but who cares.

Also the Retroscaler2x is $65. But the other one was $100 or so. Maybe it’s worth $65. If it’s the same thing.

Says you need an upscaler, and now I know how to “make” my own LCD display. They used an old iPad display and some other crap.

Adafruit, sells eINK displays. Can I use that HDMI board and an eINK display? Not for the Nintendo 64 obviously. Those things are slow, but sweet. Turn the power off, and the image stays on it.

And using one with a SBC, not sure you can just connect and use it. Unless, it has HDMI.

Hmm, that thing might work with laptop screens as well.

Do they make an eINK display controller?

That brand doesn’t.

Good idea, take display from Kindle. Amazon sucks anyways.

eINK is good for reading. But the Adafruit eINK displays don’t seem that expensive.

Would be funny to connect HDMI to eINK. The only way, might be with a SBC and a capture device though. And maybe custom software as well.

Oh yeah cheap portable projectors. Need to see what the resolution is on them. Cause if it’s 480p or less, it might work as well. Doubt they have a good upscaler though.

And now looking at a bad review on the Retroscaler2x. More like opinion. Maybe their TV and it sucks together. Do they have a Vizio if that’s the case?

Hmm, most of the pictures are too fucking close. If you sit that close, there’s the problem.

Well Hisense TV, better then mine. Cheaper, therefore better. And Walmart owns Vizio now.

Only thing good, would be a Japan made TV.

Also, my cable has SVIDEO apparently. It’s one of those most likely after market cables, that support more then one system as well.

That might be fine, but the GBS Control might be better for Nintendo 64, and 5 months ago they posted that. But doesn’t the GBS Control need a modded console? Or just an SVIDEO cable? Sort of modded I guess. Hmm, whatever I saw on my phone, may have been something else. Cause that might be the one, you can make yourself. eBay might have one for lazy people.

Also, the Amazon link is no longer available for possibly the GBS Control as well.

Well, the board is cheap. But I’m super lazy. $180 possibly if that’s the same thing. Better? Not sure I care enough to spend that much.

$139, maybe.

And if it needs SCART, is there just a cable? Think I read about that long ago. Might need more of a mod, as in soldering. Might need another Nintendo 64 in that case, in case we fry it.

Oh wait, there’s at least two people to ask. One of them is younger then me. If he knows how, maybe he’s better then me and the other person. If I do it, it’ll likely get fried.

And the $139 one might have the right input, and no SCART needed. But SCART might have a better picture, especially with newer shit.

Hmm, I wonder, if the $56 Retro scaler thing, shipped from China? Didn’t click it yet. Also, other sellers with it for $139. Need the seller with best feedback, cause it might be custom made.

And it might just be better to buy the board and do myself. But I’m lazy.

And need a SVIDEO only cable, if I use SVIDEO. But since I got a fancy thing, I can also disable the blur filters, sweet. I got many options.

And why can’t it copy this fucking song? When I can manually.

Need to make a test file with filename, so I know if I need to remove a character. Cause I only copied with the original filename.

“File name too long”

Haha, there you go.

How do I limit the filename, without editing the filename to save as? Probably can’t. Darn.

Album and title look to be the same, and very long.

There it copied finally.

Also, bad review, using wrong cable most likely. So, maybe just pay $56 or so for the clone of the better thing. Or possible clone.

People in other countries use it, and are happy. Good enough for me.

And the 64 in one opinion, looks like crap on modern displays, possibly with anything. Another reason to spend only $56, as I do get to plug directly into receiver. And maybe it’s good for something else.

And a good scaler, will make 64 look good. In a different opinion. So which one $56 or $139? If they both are about the same image wise, then $56. But it’s a damn opinion. And I might be somewhat blind anyways.

I didn’t notice her cock after all.

Many people are more picky then me after all, I don’t care about body parts after all. So $56 from US seller, with fast enough shipping, might do it for me.

And don’t put zip code in, refreshed, $56 one gone.

From China, like I thought.

Had to take case off, couldn’t scroll. Probably user error. I forgot. Also, never really had this kind of iPod. Just the little ones.

One more thing, drop your panties on the floor, and ride a cock to the moon.

Moon person, moon person.

Google said not to be evil, they meant to be evil.

Why do that? Not just greed, to control

Mass surveillance.

My phone may not be affected, since it’s rooted, and don’t plan on updating it. But that means it’s even easier to hack.

And all they’d have to do, is make everybody buy a new phone. Well, I won’t.

At least Android is “better” then iOS. They both suck, in my opinion. Just like Macs, PCs, and all other tech. It sure helps the military make killing machines though.

Must have broke itself at some point. Not fucking with it, so disabled it. Sound still works on Atari VCS.

The universal remote wasn’t able to change the input with a macro either. Was, then stopped working again, don’t know if it’s working right now or not.

Maybe that’s a TV problem. Good luck getting a non slow TV, they call them “smart” TVs. Depends what you want, if you want a 58″ or so 4k TV 60 Hz, and doesn’t matter if it has HDR even, well there’s zero new consumer TVs apparently in the US that aren’t “smart”. Business TVs? Rip off. Projector? Bigger rip off.

Tech is a scam anyways. How much does it cost anybody to make anything in China? They barely pay those people anything. Take Apple for example, and look how marked up their shit is.

They all are likely doing the same thing as well, if it’s manufactured in China.

Mythtv should be working finally. Using Tvheadend + https://github.com/bnhf/chrome-capture-for-channels as well.

Was trying to use Dispatcharr, but was having a buffering problem. Eventually got buffering with Tvheadend.

Then figured out there’s settings you can change in Kodi. Those settings should be right for me now as well.

The buffering I’m pretty sure can be caused by the network, but some of those caching settings say it helps lower powered devices as well.

The settings I used on a Atari VCS, may or may not work for say a cheap or old Android TV box.

I only added three channels to Tvheadend from the cc4c stream.

Also, why couldn’t anybody use cc4c for anything other then Channels DVR? Didn’t ask for my Channels DVR info. It’s a Docker image. And most if not all of it is open source. Might be pretty easy to duplicate it with the code they provided, if it stops working because I cancelled Channels DVR.

Works with DirecTV Streaming. And if it stops working, and I can’t fix it, or nobody else fixes it, then I’ll have a reason to cancel that too.

I record some OTA stuff too.

Why not just use Tvheadend? Looks pretty damn complicated, lucky I figured out how to add the streams from cc4c and transcode them without reading much. Used basically the same ffmpeg options as I was using with Dispatcharr.

There’s other things like Dispatcharr as well, but if using a SBC, not sure any support much hardware encoding on any SBC. I was trying to use a static ffmpeg with Dispatcharr, maybe that static ffmpeg has issues. Most of the ones I saw use Docker.

Hmm, xTeVe might not do transcoding. But would be easy to make a M3U possibly with it, and import it into Tvheadend. Then I don’t have to really touch Tvheadend to add more channels. Not really that hard though. No Docker needed for that as well. The other things might work without Docker, if you compile it.

Instead of compiling Dispatcharr or something, modify it, so that it uses some other ffmpeg, there might be a Docker image with a working ffmpeg. Well, Jellyfin Docker image likely works with ffmpeg on my Orange Pi 5.

Why not record TV with Jellyfin? Not sure I like it, and kind of pointless if using Kodi. I can just use Gerbera anyways. Not sure there’s any point, since I can just add the folders from the SBCs directly. But it’s setup.

You only need Jellyfin and crap like that if using a Android TV box or something else like that. Some Apple TVs can run Kodi as well, but do they need transcoding on the server?

Apparently the Amazon Fire crap has issues with Kodi.

Changing the encoding options, on cc4c may have fixed it as well. But I’m lazy, and not sure what all the options are. Can cc4c use a different audio format? Cause that may have been one issue. Looks like it can, wonder what one I’m using. Maybe change that to aac or mp3. Think Tvheadend is using mp3. Too lazy to look or change it. Works fine like this anyways.

The audio and video bitrate might need to be changed as well on cc4c.

Also, the TV Everywhere channel in Channels DVR is not the right number for everything. If using Schedules Direct. And the DirecTV Stream lineup.

Might have fixed itself, if I put in “Discovery Channel” for the channel name. Instead of just “Discovery”.

You can get the right channel, with tv_grep, you run the tv_grab command first and –out to file.xml, then use tv_grep with it. Just search for a show that you know is on the channel you want.

Does that do 4k? And does DirecTV do any 4k at all on anything?

If it does with Android, there’s [ADBTuner](https://adbtuner.github.io/). Does it work with DirecTV though? It sounds like cheap Android TV boxes suck though. Should have kept my NVIDIA Shield, assuming I had one. Apparently Kodi works good on that as well.

Looks like they still make those, but the TV one, not sure that’s good enough. And the Pro one only has 3 GB of RAM. That means my caching settings in Kodi might not work on it. Unless the GPU is better on it, then my Atari VCS, or I have some GPU hardware acceleration setting wrong.

And you might need it plugged in using HDMI to the thing that’s recording it as well. A network capture card, would be the best option for me. Unless one of the SBCs can use my USB capture device, and the capture thing does the encoding. And it still doesn’t need too much CPU. It’s a cheap capture card. Rather buy a network one, instead of some other USB one.

Also, some HDMI things can apparently be hacked to be made into a network capture device, might be even cheaper. Might be HDMI over IP, had one of those.

Unless I don’t hook whatever I buy up to the TV as well. But there’s multiple questions to answer, if DirecTV doesn’t do 4k at all, or on anything I record, then there’s no point.