Blog

At least with Bazzite. What might have fixed it, was verifying the files.

Should have done that to start with. Instead of trying to remove the DRM. And use something else to launch the game.

First time seeing Just Cause 3 running on my Steam Deck.

How many times did I try deleting the Proton prefix when it had SteamOS on it? Well, I deleted the wrong prefix. There was obviously no symlinks from a fresh Bazzite install to the microSD card.

720p looks fine to me. But I’ll stream it if I want to play it. No need to make Deck hot.

Good news, I don’t need a Steam Machine. Except, it could be better then my desktop, except the GPU will only have 8 GB of RAM. My GPU has 12 GB.

And I don’t think it’ll have USB4. Kind of sad. Guess they don’t want anybody using an eGPU.

Updated Bazzite today too.

Like wasting money, and big music files? Then 192 kHz is for you.

Somebody on Reddit, said that there’s a good chance most people won’t notice a difference.

And probably right, my speakers were under $100 I think. Basically new in the box at a Pawn Shop, Polk Audio.

Some people don’t like these speakers, but they sound good to me.

My Denon receiver was $120 or so at a Pawn Shop.

My Dayton Audio CS800 subwoofer was the most expensive part. It’s currently $160.

This subwoofer is better then the crappy/useless Sony I had a long time ago. That’s basically the only new part I bought for it.

Apparently some men brag to women. Well, I’m not a man.

But I could brag about sexual dysfunction.

I wonder, do I have anymore automatic bills this month? Well, I’ll find out, if it gets declined. Not all my money is on that card. Think Philo was the last bill.

Got a $30 Best Buy brand 65w laptop charger. Apparently, I didn’t take into account, that the dock needed power, so have only been using the AC adapter the Deck came with.

Steam Deck is also faster when plugged in. Not surprising.

Not sure exactly how I got 4k 60hz working. The new AC adapter probably helped.

Did turn crap off for 30 seconds or so too.

Made a script to add the resolution using kscreen-doctor:

#!/usr/bin/bash
sleep 5
WAYLAND_DISPLAY=wayland-0 kscreen-doctor output.DP-1.addCustomMode.3840.2160.59980.reduced
sleep 5
WAYLAND_DISPLAY=wayland-0 kscreen-doctor output.DP-1.mode.3840x2160@60
sleep 5
brew services restart sunshine-beta

Don’t know why it doesn’t detect it. Might need to mess with settings on TV too. Somebody said they don’t get full color, I do.

My fancy PCM2704 board still works too, bought in 2014.

Optical is better then HDMI. TV can be off now. Didn’t want to change KDE settings to keep TV on. Also, with the Atari VCS, HDMI could have some kind of annoying delay or lag sometimes.

Could sound slightly better too.

I was going to use analog, but don’t think I can assign that to the game input.

There’s this, if I ever want something better. But I have my own nice case, Tupperware. Had to use a steak knife, then scissors to make the hole. Would have been easier to just not have the lid completely closed.

Less likely to shock it, with it in there.

Where can the Hifime S2 Digi be bought in the US? The link above is a cheaper one, that can be shipped from US. But the Hifime S2 Digi does 192 kHz.

Need to get a hi res song, and see if it has any difference.

I put Bazzite on the Deck too. Don’t like SteamOS.

The on screen keyboard worked in the installer. Might need to click certain buttons to make it show. It just showed up in the installer.

Have to map it to something it looks like.

Mapped it to y.

Don’t plan on playing games @ 4k. Just needed it to do 4k 60hz, so it would be better then Atari VCS. Atari VCS can do 4k 60hz.

Still can’t play Just Cause 3 on it, for some reason. Works on desktop for some reason. Or did last time I opened it. I can stream it though.

#!/usr/bin/bash
sleep 5
QT_QPA_PLATFORM=wayland kscreen-doctor output.DP-1.addCustomMode.3840.2160.60000.reduced
sleep 5
QT_QPA_PLATFORM=wayland kscreen-doctor output.DP-1.mode.3840x2160@30
sleep 5
QT_QPA_PLATFORM=wayland kscreen-doctor output.DP-1.mode.3840x2160@60
sleep 5
QT_QPA_PLATFORM=wayland kscreen-doctor output.DP-1.scale.2.44167
sleep 5
brew services restart sunshine-beta

Better script, changing directly to 60Hz doesn’t work for some reason.

And turning the TV on, you might be greeted by a black screen. Moving the joysticks on game controller doesn’t wake it up either.

Well, TV woke up today. Sleep is disabled. But set to turn monitor off after 60 minutes.

Was slowing my desktop down too much. So got rid of it. Probably slowing my network down as well. Cause it runs more then once a day.

Switched over to Borg.

Orange Pi 5 not done backing up the other drive to the slow drive.

Can’t afford a faster drive. 8 TB is almost $300 new. Refurbished $150 or a little less for some. I won’t pay the president tax.

This slow ass drive used to cost $110 new.

Only a monthly backup, cause it takes days.

Good news, the US plans on banning all consumer routers, except Starlink.

And according to one person on a forum, the government will be able to kick doors in, to seize “illegal” equipment.

Well, some other good news is, I might cancel my internet next year as well. And dispose of the now illegal tech.

Maybe Linux will be banned too. Might as well ban cameras too, so nobody can film the government anymore. I’ll have a lot of stuff to get rid of.

And the Litter Robot will be nice without internet, no more app. I won’t buy a different WiFi AP, especially one with backdoors.

And apparently the US government is exempt from the ban.

Can cancel lots of bills if I cancel my internet. Might as well cancel my cell plan too. And get rid of my phone as well.

Good thing the Internet will never be censored.

New routers will be so smart, nobody will be able to set a password on them, or log into them.

Might be able to keep using all my stuff, if I don’t update anything. Just cancel internet, retire WiFi. No point in having WiFi, if it can’t be updated.

Doesn’t Amazon own eero? Looks like they do. Well, they will probably be exempted then. Since Amazon is co-sponsors of the government. I wouldn’t use an Amazon router though.

And they both use WebKit.

Maybe the content blocker was making Safari slow. Installed AdGuard, since Firefox doesn’t have extensions in iOS. Don’t need that at home. Or maybe I do, cause it’s slower, but so is my internet.

Good luck playing HEVC on an iPhone. It can record that, but good luck converting a video so it’ll play. I can get it in Photos now, but no picture.

Well, I think I’m done trying to make it playable. If they want to see the video, they can look at it on something else, or use VLC.

Funny, plays in LibreWolf now though. Didn’t know LibreWolf did H265.

Unless, you like uninstalling, and manually deleting config files.

Just deleted /usr/lib/systemd/journald.conf.d/syslog.conf.

There was some missed forwarding errors in systemctl status systemd-journald.

No idea if that file is in a stock install. But I did remove syslog-ng, cause I don’t want or need it.

No more missed forwarding messages. Maybe useradd doesn’t throw an error now too. Oh yeah, need to log out and back in.

Or reboot.

I also don’t recommend setting btusb.enable_autosuspend to 0.

I got a nice backtrace error after doing that. Had to hold power button down to shutdown. Thought pcie_aspm=off was the problem, well it’s in the kernel cmdline, and booted just fine, I did enable something in the bios, no idea if it is actually needed though.

Hard to tell if the Bluetooth mouse is disconnecting while using anymore. Not doing it as much. Last time it did it, I wasn’t using computer.

Thought it was interference at first, cause I was connecting to one of my 2.4 GHz SSIDs.

Well, there’s plenty of reasons, Bluetooth can disconnect randomly. Only way to know for sure if it’s Linux Mint or not, is to use it with something else, like the laptop which still has openSUSE Tumbleweed.

Or just keep using it, and see if it ever disconnects while using it again. It has no issues reconnecting.

I thought Intel Bluetooth/WiFi worked great in Linux though. Maybe not Linux Mint.

Should have used the LMDE version as well. Didn’t realize it was still a thing. Too lazy to reinstall.

Apparently at least one front USB port on this case is broken, or two if I count the C port. Computer parts are too expensive nowadays.

Apparently most 10 Gbps USB Hubs, are for laptops. I’ll just plug stuff into the external hard drive that has two USB ports. It’s cheaper.

Think they say to replace UPS batteries every two years or something. But it still seems to work fine.

It says No for needs replacement.

I wonder, how much heavy SLA batteries cost nowadays.

The ones on my Amazon wish list, apparently about the same price.

The seller I bought the UPS from, said these batteries work in it. But I’m not a fan of Amazon.

Looks like a dollar more, if not bought from Amazon.

Still haven’t bought anything from Batteries Plus, and probably never will.

Have to be a business customer, apparently to buy some stuff.

At least $53 per battery from Batteries Plus, or some other brand for $45 or so for two. I’ll pass on Batteries Plus.

This Anker “MagSafe” battery, can be used without the wireless part, but attached to phone. Didn’t need to buy the wrong thing, to try and magnetically attach a bigger heavier battery to my phone. I have one magnet that’s strong enough, but too lazy to cut off the bracket thing on it. It’s for using an iPhone as a webcam.

Probably won’t ever use phone as a webcam again though.

Using a cable is better, not as much heat. Not sure why they call it “MagSafe”.

Shouldn’t use your phone apparently, if wireless charging. The good news is, if you do, and the phone overheats enough, and dies, you can buy a new phone.

The bad news is, if my phone dies, I won’t have enough money for a new phone, or maybe that’s good news.

It’s a good time to buy computer parts, like hard drives. A slow 8 TB new one, cost I think $260 on Amazon earlier. I paid $120. Or was it $220? Well, over $200. Who wants a slow as fuck 8 TB drive for over $200?

The good news is, refurbished drives cost more too.

There is a new iOS update. But it already got the automatic background “security” update.

The keyboard might work better in the other update. But what other new “features” does it have?

If somebody wants to hack something bad enough, they will. Security doesn’t exist.

Mom has my old Vizio soundbar, and she has a Vizio TV.

Well, HDMI CEC stopped working for some unknown reason.

She basically had to turn everything off for 30 seconds. That’s how you properly reboot a “smart” TV.

She uses an Apple TV, not the shitty TV interface. Maybe the Apple TV updated itself.

I stopped using CEC, cause it didn’t work for me either.

Walmart will surely make Vizio better.

Probably a Hisense or any other cheaper brand, is better then Vizio. Grandpa had a Hisense, don’t know if he still does.

Also, don’t update Vizio TVs. I think her TV went white once, probably updated itself. I unplugged the Ethernet cable from my TV. Some people on internet say not to update Vizio TVs either.

Somehow the audio volume setting got changed to fixed, and it needs to be set to variable for a soundbar. I doubt anyone changed it. Requires more then one button push to do it.

Maybe the TV has a memory problem. Just like me.