Author: admin

All I did was disable LightDM. Apparently there isn’t getty enabled.

Well, I broke it, by installing r8168-dkms. Was trying to fix the Ethernet issues. I was trying to share the WiFi connection with an Apple TV. No official WireGuard app for the Apple TV, and I’m not buying an app either.

Also, better to put it 100% behind a VPN.

I just installed Debian on the USB drive, using a virtual machine. Does the Atari VCS use UEFI? I think it supports it.

An update could have messed it up as well, or a setting change. Well, Debian should be more stable.

The USB audio adapter on the Steam Deck may have issues now. Music sounds funny with it. Too lazy to change any settings. HDMI sounds fine so far.

Don’t use the default libvirt directory, it ran out of space.

Restored the backup to the other storage pool, and now it’s working again.

Thick ladies are nice too.

Don’t follow the instructions for a waffle mix. Use more batter then it says. Start with the amount of water it says.

Taste way better.

The best frozen waffles, are the Belgian ones from Trader Joe’s. Too expensive though, only four waffles for $6 or $7.

Only downside is, I got sweaty. Makes more sense though, then sitting by the AC and being sweaty.

Also made a big mess on the counter. I was just guessing the number to put the waffle cooker on, guess 5 works. Easy to put too much batter on the cooker too.

Don’t put enough, and it won’t be as big of a waffle as it can make. Well, the waffles go in my stomach, and out my asshole, so I don’t care what it looks like.

I moved that box, after I realized the waffle cooker is hot. One waffle came apart when opening it, probably opened it too soon. But it was better then the first waffle.

No idea how many waffles I made, didn’t bother counting. Put em in the freezer.

Does Costco sell a giant box of waffle mix?

A 10 pound bag of waffle mix. But says an egg is needed for waffles. Not much point in buying eggs, just for waffles.

Put oil on the waffle cooker, haven’t used it for a long time. Got oil on the counter too, that’s why the waffle cooker was sliding around when trying to clean around it.

I’m guessing my spray bottle I put oil in, is from Walmart. Cause it sucks. Doesn’t seem to “spray”, a bunch comes out though.

Water doesn’t taste filtered anymore.

And I have diarrhea, might not be related though, no idea.

I think it says they can be returned on Amazon, they can have the used one back too, cause it doesn’t filter anything.

Water comes out too fast. Now to fill up my ZeroWater filter.

Well, ZeroWater pitcher is useless. There’s some kind of water stains on the lid. And removed the sprout, and one part of the sprout, has something on it. Too lazy to try cleaning whatever it is off of it.

Do glass pitchers get a white powder stuff on it? I doubt ZeroWater makes a glass one.

Well, I’ve had enough SELinux on my Deck. Switching it to AppArmor.

I guess SELinux is broken in openSUSE on my Deck.

The easiest way to fix SELinux, would be reinstalling. But might not work because I’m using getty to auto login. No display-manager.

Well, maybe KDE will be more stable.

Nice, I was able to login to Cockpit, without fucking with anything.

zypper rm “selinux*”, no point in leaving it installed. Maybe I should switch my desktop to it too. SELinux isn’t worth the trouble.

AMDGPU crashed yet again on my laptop. Downgraded the kernel. Did the firmware update too? If so, I should downgrade that too. KDE may have updated, and perhaps it’s triggering the AMDGPU bug more now.

I think somebody said using Cosmic fixed it for them.

Perhaps I should downgrade MESA. Well, then I need to upgrade the other stuff.

Should install Cosmic on the Deck though, maybe it’s more stable then KDE on the Deck. MESA updated on the 21st. The kernel and firmware the 23rd.

Desktop hasn’t crashed yet, but don’t use it much. Somebody said, that’s hard to reproduce, well using LibreWolf in KDE, has been working for me to reproduce it.

And no amdgpu.dcdebugmask=0x12 didn’t fix anything.

Won’t use Cosmic on laptop. Too much work to figure out how to use the eGPU for everything. Well, if the monitor is plugged into eGPU, then it’ll seem slow, if it’s using the iGPU.

And the AI is a liar, said to use cosmic-comp to start without a display manager. Now it shows a gray screen.

If I use start-cosmic, it takes a very long time.

Good idea, put username in default_session for cosmic-greeter, instead of whatever Github said to do. That’s what Gentoo said to do. Didn’t work, trying that command without a display manager. But forgot to change getty@tty1.service.

Apparently openSUSE works great on the Deck. Switched back to X11, cause Kwin was crashing too much. Looks like it crashed with X11 too. Couldn’t even SSH into it.

Couldn’t connect to Orange Pi 5 over there either. Rebooted the network switches over there, and could connect to Orange Pi 5 again. But couldn’t connect to Raspberry Pi 5 anymore. Was probably fine, before I rebooted the switches. Guess the Pi can’t recover it’s network.

And there’s no log, said no persistent log.

Only solution for the Pi, was to unplug the power and plug it back in. No monitor is hooked up to it.

AMDGPU on laptop finally crashed again, a nice fence timeout.

Update openSUSE on Deck again. No idea if any of the updates will fix anything. Didn’t look like any KDE updates. What’s the point in using slowroll if you have to use an old snapshot?

zypper in -t pattern gnome_basic gnome

Maybe that’ll fix it. Also, don’t think Gnome supports X11 anymore, or does it? The AI on a search engine, claims I should install gnome_x11.

This visual editor sucks, easiest way to type under a code block, is to switch to the text editor. Too lazy to manually type the crap for the fancy code blocks. Wouldn’t have any luck remembering all those classes anyways.

Might want to run update-alternatives –config default-displaymanager before rebooting as well. Unless you want to use gdm. Or uninstall gdm, and all the other things that rely on it.

Well, no idea why auto login doesn’t work. Can LightDM not auto login to Gnome?

It’s just going to keep on trying to use some KDE PAM crap. Might be best to switch to a different distro, that doesn’t have a broken Kwin.

Easy to break lightdm. Now to uninstall Gnome, and use something other then LightDM.

Also, why do I need a login manager? Or “display” manager? The reason is, cause search engines are useless. Make a service file then. What the AI said to do, requires SDDM.

The internet has no info on any new KDE.

Looks like using getty works. Also, what does -z in a if statement in bash mean? Well, don’t bother searching, the search engine is useless. I may have known in the past, but I forgot.

Use Getty, and edit .profile. Here is what -z in a if statement in bash does. Don’t search for -z in a if statement in bash or any other wording with -z in it. I had to search for “linux bash if statement options” to find that.

I was guessing it did, something like it said. Guess that means, if there’s a WAYLAND_DISPLAY set, it won’t run it again.

Probably won’t fix Kwin though. But I don’t want or need SDDM or LightDM, or any others.

Only one problem, now SSH doesn’t work. Guess I should have checked to make sure it isn’t SSH. Arch Wiki did say to put it in .bash_profile.

SSH must be dead now, sweet. using ssh user@host bash –norc –noprofile might work. Should have left && [ “$XDG_VTNR” = 1 ] in the if statement.

If KDE crashes, it might also auto restart it.

KDE is still crashing, as expected. Now to turn receiver back on. Guess something is crashing, but it’s still open. Too bad antimicrox isn’t running now.

while true; do antimicrox && break; done

Lots of Kwin crash dialogs. But at least antimicrox still works.

Might be able to watch TV, without using SSH, or trying to see what I’m typing in a tty. The text is too small in a tty. Too lazy to do anything about that.

If you don’t want the code to run that is. Switched it back to WordPress, same issue.

I installed a plugin. After inserting the code block, switch to text, so the code can be inserted between the tags. Didn’t try highlighting the code and then clicking the code block toolbar item. Might be able to manually type it though.

There’s another solution, use Hugo.

Saw black water come out. So I tested the PPM with a water test, one said 138 PPM, and other said 131. The ZeroWater is the one that said 131. No idea what the official PUR filter tests as.

Tasted it, and tastes horrible. Guess the PPM isn’t lying.

And I turned water back on, to let it run some more, and then it was around 140 PPM with the non ZeroWater tester.

If you search for black on the page for it on Amazon, people say to run it for five minutes. It’s been longer then five minutes. Also, the paper it came with, doesn’t say how long to rinse it out. Might have said something about gallons. Might say on the Amazon page, how long to run water through it.

It says 3 minutes on the Amazon page for it. Maybe they mean three hours.

Looks like it can be returned.

Also, where are the official PUR ones made? Somebody sent these back, cause they’re made in China. When I removed the old filter, the top broke off it. Guess PUR filters aren’t water proof. Dumped the water out of the part the filter goes in as well, it fills up with water.

Good news, I still have my ZeroWater pitcher, and an unused filter. Never got a broken ZeroWater filter. I don’t like bending over though. If I put the pitcher in the fridge, it’ll be on the bottom, and that requires bending over, to get water.

Wonder what the PPM is for the water without a filter. It might be less then this filter. Either way, it likely doesn’t taste as bad.

The water straight from the faucet, is 141 or 142 PPM, I removed the faucet filter to test it. Now wondering what the PPM is for the official PUR filter.

Well, I must have ran water through it long enough, cause it has no taste now. But the water comes out faster with this filter, might be why the PPM is almost the same as without it.

Need to taste the water straight from faucet. If it tastes the same, then I don’t need any filters. Don’t like cold water anymore. Wouldn’t have to put ZeroWater pitcher in fridge, but nowhere else to put it. If I put it on the counter, then I’ll have to move it when using the Air Fryer or something. No room on table for it either.

What is the water tester not testing for though? Problem with ZeroWater, is the water tastes horrible when you need a new filter. And the filters stink after using them up too. There’s a good chance, they did that on purpose. No extra filter, and enjoy the fish tasting water.

According to the highly intelligent AI on Amazon, PUR doesn’t change the PPM much.

Since it’s a charcoal filter, can I buy charcoal and replace the charcoal?

Pretty sure I won’t like the taste of water straight from the faucet though. After I tried the filtered water in my mom’s fridge, I got a ZeroWater, and started drinking water. I like my water to taste like nothing.

Just run water through it for longer then 3 minutes. 20 minutes might work. No idea total time I ran water through it, I left it running while cleaning. And probably for some time after cleaning too.

Too late to return, probably bought the 2 pack in January. Guess I should have checked other filter.

Won’t be buying the PUR branded filters, or from Target anymore. Under $20 for two in January. Now $28 for two. Or get a different brand for $20, and get 3.

Was too lazy to try getting all the plastic out of it. So I threw it out.